Magnolia acuminata
When the first true flower bloomed, some 140 million years ago, scientists suggest it looked a bit like that of the cucumber magnolia (Magnolia acuminata).
This whole genus of sumptuous trees has been around since dinosaurs roamed the Earth and ferns ruled the botanical roost.
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Encountering one of these hulking remnants of the past feels a little like stepping through a time portal.
It’s especially strange when you find one growing next to the oaks and ashes typical of forests in northeastern America today.
The cucumber magnolia, also known as the cucumber tree or cucumbertree, has a relatively broad range across eastern North America, spanning from southern Canada to Georgia.
It is primarily concentrated and grows largest in the Appalachians.
Read on to find out more about growing this impressive native tree. Here’s what I’ll cover:
The common name of this imposing tree comes from its knobbly, two- to three-inch-long fruits which are shaped somewhat like a cucumber.
Eventually turning reddish pink and splitting open to reveal shiny, orange seeds, the fruits are almost as attractive as the flowers.
The flowers of cucumber magnolia emerge in late spring and the pale, creamy white or yellow petals span up to four inches in diameter.
Slightly aromatic, the flowers are pollinated by beetles and are receptive for only a short period of time.
The fruit is enjoyed by a variety of wildlife, including grackles, blue jays and squirrels. As a result, cucumber magnolia seedlings are quite hard to find in their natural habitat.
Quick Look
Common name(s): Cucumber magnolia, cucumber tree, cucumbertree
Plant type: Deciduous tree
Hardiness (USDA Zone): 4-9
Native to: Mexico, Central and South America, Southeast Asia
Bloom time / season: Late spring
Exposure: Full sun to part shade
Soil type: Loose, organically-rich, well draining
Soil pH: 6.0-7.0, slightly acidic to neutral
Time to maturity: 12 years
Mature size: Up to 35 ft wide x 30-100 ft high (depending on cultivar)
Best uses: Naturalized areas, shade tree, specimen tree, wildlife garden, woodland
Hardy in Zones 4 to 9, cucumber magnolia can be grown in a wide variety of climatic zones.
Organically-rich, well drained, moist, deep soils are the preferred substrate for cucumber magnolia, though it can grow in sandy loams, clay soils, and coarse textured loams as long as moisture is fairly consistent.
In optimal conditions, which are rarely found outside of its preferred habitat in the Appalachians, this shaggy-barked tree can grow to 100 feet tall.
It is truly a sight to see, laden with ponderous fruit or creamy blossoms, out in the middle of a quiet forest.
Traditionally, tea made from the bark of these trees was used to treat everything from congestion, toothaches, constipation, and malaria.
Early settlers steeped the fruits in whiskey to impart a slightly fruity flavor to their beverage.
The contributions of M. acuminata to horticulture have been outstanding.
The hardiest magnolia species in North America, the root stock is often used for grafting other species and cultivars, to impart superior cold tolerance.
Magnolias grafted onto M. acuminata root stock are grown across chilly Scandinavia, and east through Poland, making them the northernmost magnolias in the world.
How to Grow
One of the few magnolias that can be used as a shade tree, M. acuminata is a wonderful choice for a park setting or a long, rolling lawn.
The huge flowers and bright fruits will attract a variety of wildlife.
If you lack the space to grow this species out in the open, it’s a wonderful, often overlooked choice for a woodland setting or wildlife garden.
Suited to both full sun and part shade it can be tucked into a corner of the garden with decent, but not perpetual, sun and still put on a satisfying display.
Soil
The optimal spot for M. acuminata will have deep, loose, rich loam that’s also well-draining.
Don’t plant in an area that has a tendency to become boggy or waterlogged.
If your soil is very poor or depleted, pick another tree. Fertilization won’t be able to compensate for the nutrients cucumber magnolia needs to produce the large leaves and flowers.
Light
In full sun, the pyramidal crown of leaves will really branch out. Best of all, in the spring, each branch will be full of pale, creamy blossoms.
Cucumber magnolia is a forest tree and provided it isn’t overshadowed as a sapling, it can and will grow on the edge of a woodland or in a partially shaded yard.
Protection
Like most magnolias, this species has relatively weak wood that’s prone to break in high winds.
Consider this when you choose a planting site and make sure it’s somewhere with a decent amount of protection from any storms that may blow your way.
Water
Make sure to water well during any dry spells. Although this species is known for its extensive root system, it has moderately high water needs and will suffer without regular rainfall or irrigation.
During the first couple of years while your sapling is becoming established, make sure it stays well watered.
If there’s no rainfall in the forecast for a week, particularly during the summer, give it a drenching soak with the hose.
Pruning
You don’t need to prune your cucumber magnolia. Feel free to take out dead wood or any branches that may break, but beyond that, magnolias really prefer to be left alone.
Cultivars to Select
It’s relatively unusual to find this tree at your run of the mill nursery, but garden centers specializing in natives should carry it.
Cucumber Magnolia
You can find the species plant available from Nature Hills Nursery.
There are numerous, jaw droppingly beautiful cultivars and hybrids as well. Some are wildly popular and widely available, others less so.
Many cultivars have flowers that appear before the leaves. This makes their flowers susceptible to frost.
If you live in a northern or high elevation region, I highly recommend purchasing the straight species, or a cultivar that has late emerging flowers, to avoid springtime disappointment.
Elizabeth
‘Elizabeth’ grows up to 50 feet high and 35 feet wide. Boasting beautiful pale yellow flowers that emerge just as its leaves are unfurling, this cultivar is hardy in Zones 4 to 8.
‘Elizabeth’
You can find ‘Elizabeth’ plants available at Nature Hills Nursery.
Butterflies
‘Butterflies’ is a hybrid that grows up to 20 feet tall and 18 feet wide. Deep yellow flowers appear in spring before the leaves emerge.
‘Butterflies’
This one is hardy in Zones 5 to 7 and you can find plants available at Fast Growing Trees.
Goldfinch
A very wide, rotund tree, ‘Goldfinch’ boasts the most beautiful, creamy yellow flowers that emerge before the leaves.
Hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 8, this cultivar grows 40 feet high and 40 feet wide.
Yellow Bird
‘Yellow Bird’ blooms a little later than some cultivars on the market.
It is hardy in Zones 4 to 8, produces plentiful, pale yellow, upright flowers, and grows to 40 feet high and 25 feet wide.
Propagation
M. acuminata can be grown from seed, stem cuttings, or planted as a sapling.
Although they’re a little finicky as seedlings and young trees, once established, they’re a low maintenance addition to the landscape.
From Seed
Starting M. acuminata from seed is not particularly easy. For that reason, you may struggle to find seed for sale.
If you see a specimen at a botanical garden, a neighbor’s house or, best of all, out in the woods, you can certainly collect a handful of your own seed and give it a go.
They’re usually ready for collection around the end of August. The bright orange seeds dangle from slender filaments after they slip from their protective coating.
When you see the seeds swinging in the wind, you’ll know they are ready to harvest.
When you’ve collected your seed, move quickly as these seeds don’t store well and if they dry out, they may not be viable.
Begin by rubbing your seeds over a rough surface, such as a soft grain sandpaper, or an old piece of window screen.
You want to scarify, or nick, the surface of the seed. When you’ve thoroughly rubbed each seed, wash them in a tub of slightly soapy water to remove the oily residue then rinse them in clean water.
The seed then needs a period of cold-stratification. This can be achieved by setting the seeds in moist sphagnum moss in the refrigerator for three months.
In the spring, prepare several four-inch pots filled with moisture-retentive, rich potting soil. Sow two seeds per pot, to account for potentially poor germination, about an inch deep.
Cover with a little pine or natural wood mulch and start the countdown. Germination can take up to 60 days.
Germination requires spring-like conditions, with temperatures fluctuating between 60 to 80F, and lots of bright, indirect light.
Don’t disturb your containers as the seedlings begin to emerge, and keep the soil moist, but not soaking wet.
When your seedlings reach a few inches tall you can move them into a suitable, prepared location in the garden.
Unlike some magnolias, this species transplants well and grows roots rapidly.
You can learn more about starting magnolias from seed here.
From Cuttings
M. acuminata can also be grown from softwood cuttings taken in the summer.
Prepare several deep pots, filling with a mixture of equal parts peat, potting soil, and sand. Make sure the substrate is moist throughout, but not soaking.
Use a sharp pair of pruners to cut a six-inch length from the growing tip of a healthy branch.
Try to select a straight piece and make sure it’s flexible softwood of current year’s growth. Remove the leaves on the lower half of the cutting.
Using a pencil or stick, poke holes into the soil of your prepared pots. Dip the bottom two inches of the cuttings in rooting hormone.
Insert your dipped cuttings into the holes and push soil in around it so the cutting is tightly tucked in.
Place your pots in a bright, sheltered location outside where they will be protected from temperature extremes and drying winds.
Keep the soil evenly moist and do not allow it to dry out. Rooting should happen in about six to eight weeks. By summer’s end, they will be ready for transplanting.
Transplanting
Magnolia saplings typically prefer to be transplanted in the spring, not fall.
Amend your soil with some well-rotted compost and dig a hole deep enough so that the root ball is even with the level of soil.
Try not to disturb the roots too much when you remove the plant from its pot.
Set your tree in the hole and backfill with soil, then water in well.
Managing Pests and Disease
M. acuminata is pretty tough and isn’t generally affected by pests or disease. Stressed specimens may be more susceptible.
There are only a few issues to keep an eye out for:
Herbivores
Deer will occasionally browse the foliage of young cucumber trees, although it’s not one of their favorites.
Protect young trees within a cage of chicken wire to keep these ungulates away.
Insects
As a native North American tree, there are a glut of insects that rely on cucumber magnolia for nectar and pollen.
Relatively few actually cause problems. Keep your eyes peeled for these ones:
Aphids
These well known pests are sapsuckers that cause a variety of problems in cucumber magnolias including curling leaves, premature leaf drop, and stunted growth.
Typically, they’re only an issue for young plants that are already stressed.
Keep your magnolias happy by making sure they’re well watered, and planted in an appropriate location with plenty of sunshine.
To read more about this common garden pest check out our guide to controlling aphids.
Magnolia Scale
Among the largest soft scale insects in North America, magnolia scale (Neolecanium cornuparvum) can grow up to half an inch long.
They are blob-shaped, pale colored, soft, puffy, and can be found along young twigs and branches.
The tiny crawlers, or young, hatch in July and August and look like little dark dots that can creep and crawl across your unsuspecting magnolia’s bark.
Magnolia scale feeds primarily on soft growth. On affected branches you may notice twig dieback, curling foliage, reduced flower production, and premature leaf drop.
Early intervention will help manage scale infestations before they range out of control.
Check your trees regularly during the growing season, closely examining soft new tissue such as buds and softwood and scrape off the insects with a rag dipped in soapy water.
Our guide to dealing with scale has more information.
Yellow Poplar Weevil
Also known as magnolia weevils, Odontopus calceatus are little black beetles about an eighth of an inch long.
Both the adults and their larvae feed on the foliage of magnolia trees, causing tiny rice shaped blotches on the leaves.
In large infestations this pest can cause defoliation, but they rarely impact the overall health of the tree.
You may notice feeding damage from this pest at any point in early summer. If the infestation is heavy, the leaves will appear scorched, and covered in small brown to black dots.
Occasionally, heavy feeding will induce a premature leaf drop in July.
These pests very rarely affect the long term health of M. acuminata.
Disease
There are few diseases that can affect this tenacious magnolia. Here are a few to be aware of:
Canker
A common disease affecting many trees, canker is a fungal infection that is typically only problematic on cucumber magnolia in wet sites.
The fungus (Nectria galligena) causes sunken areas on the bark and branches and can eventually grow to severely impede water and nutrient transport within the tree.
You may notice the fruiting bodies of N. galligena producing spores at the site of a wound, or on the cankers themselves. They tend to be highly visible colors, like orange or red.
Sadly, there’s no cure for Nectria canker. To slow the spread of the infection, remove damaged twigs about four to six inches below the canker using pruners cleaned with rubbing alcohol.
Only do this in dry weather as moisture will serve to spread fungal spores. Unfortunately, the new wounds you create can serve as new entry points for pathogens present on the bark.
Make sure to swab your pruners with rubbing alcohol after each cut.
As with all diseases, the best way to manage cankers is with good preventative care. Grow your tree in optimal conditions so it’s healthy and strong.
Belle of the Forest
Often passed over for its better known, showier cousins, cucumber tree excels in plenty of ways: it’s largely pest and disease resistant, it thrives in woodland or garden settings, and makes a fabulous shade tree.
Besides, even though the flowers may not be pink, purple, or as ostentatious as some of the other magnolias, cucumber tree is reliably covered in blossoms come spring. What could be better than that?
Have you ever seen cucumber magnolia growing in the wild? Where did you see it? Have you tried growing this species in your landscape? Please tell us about your experiences in the comments section below!
And to learn more about other types of magnolia, check out these guides next:
